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Ian Anderson came from Vancouver, Canada, and a search for life's fulfillment brought him to the heart of Belize, in the Caves Branch River valley, where he began guiding caving expeditions. This area contains the largest collection of caves in the country, with five separate underground river cave systems that can be navigated for distances up to seven miles, using rafts or inner tubes. Also, there are over 36 explored, dry "crystal caves" in the area. Many of these caves have huge rooms filled with giant stalactites and stalagmites, columns, and crystalline formations which have all been created over hundreds of thousands of years.

Caves Branch Estate, which privately holds over 50,000 acres of the region, has permitted Ian to create his own "jungle camp" alongside the river, as a base of operations. This allowed him to offer accommodations to his clients, along with their expeditions. The brochure accurately describes the operation as "rustic but unique," with the emphasis on adventure. It warns that "all activities are fairly strenuous and designed for the adventurous spirit."

When Ian first opened, each unit was quite rustic and honestly, not all that comfortable. There were no flush toilets, hot water, electricity nor private bath facilities. However, returning guests, and newcomers alike, will be presently surprised by the beautiful new lodge / dining room facility, and luxury lodging options. Best of all, Caves Branch is still the place for an exotic, adventurous experience.

Ian's signature adventures, such as River Cave Expedition, and Black Hole Drop are still on offer. New to the list are "Ian's Bad Ass Expeditions:" Seven- to nine-day jungle / cave exploration and discovery adventure tours. The experienced guides, all hand picked and trained by Ian, are ready, willing and able to take you there. On our visit to Caves Branch, we had the fantastic experience of taking the "River Cave" expedition into "Xibalba" (pronounced SheeBALba), the Maya Underworld.

Into the Underworld...

After breakfast, we were transported by tractor and wagon about five miles upstream, where we walked several yards to the river. We climbed aboard our tubes and paddled a short distance up the calm waters of the jungle-canopied river which flows from the cave. Shortly inside, with only our headlamps to light our way, we climbed out and walked throughout most of the trip, using the inner tubes to traverse the larger stretches of water, and areas where there was no room to walk.

Our bold guide, Jacinto Chun, had great respect for his Maya heritage, and told us a brief history of the Maya people and the importance of this cave to them. He led us through high and low, wide and narrow passages, stopping to explain the significance of fire pits, carvings and artifacts still in the cave. We truly felt the magic and the mystery, pausing at one point to sit silently with our lamps off, listening to the "voices" of the cave. We saw mounds of crystals, looking like barrels of sugar flowing through the tunnels and stalactites, stalagmites, and columns that stretched over fifty feet in height, and millions of years old. These caves remain "untouched", and we felt as though we were the very first to see these magnificent crystalline structures.

There were no broken formations, no footprints, no trails-and the artifacts remain exactly as they were found and have been documented by the Department of Archaeology. At the end, we slowly drifted with the silent current back to the entrance of the cave-floating gently towards the light and out under the lush green canopy, dripping from a fresh rain shower. This trip is a must for any visitor to Belize who wants an unforgettable experience that will be talked about for years to come. This ceremonial pot, used by the Maya over one thousand years ago, still rests beside a fire pit deep inside the cave.

More Cave Photos:

On my return visit, I chose the Black Hole Drop adventure...involving a short bus ride, a serious uphill hike (about an hour) to the top of what must be the biggest cave on the planet; and then a 300ft rappell to the floor of the cave. There are few words to describe this experience! The hike out is somewhat arduous, as well, but for the most part, downhill. There is no water in this cave, but we had time afterwords to stop at the nearby river for a cool and refreshing dip. All gear, water and lunch are provided for this trip.

A good pair of quick drying hiking shoes are recommended; but the company has a variety of good shoes available for rent, if necessary. A pair of lightweight long pants are a good idea if you are a bug magnet (like me), those that zip off into shorts are ideal for Belizean adventures. For river trips, a reliable pair of TEVA or Keen sandals are advisable, as some hiking and/or climbing is involved in most trips.

Facilities

In addition to camping areas and bunkhouses, Caves Branch offers a variety of suites, bungalows and cabanas. Although once a hard-core jungle camper, Ian has mellowed over the years; all private units have ensuite baths and warm water. (Photo at left: Treehouse suite) While I attribute much of this mellowness to his new wife, Ella, Ian is also in tune with the evolving tourism market in Belize, and is constantly improving and adjusting to accommodate the needs of the current traveler. These new accommodations make the Caves Branch property a great place just to relax and enjoy the jungle surroundings. Birdwatchers, in particular, would enjoy spotting new species from the deck their private treehouse.

The entire staff of Belizeans is very friendly and eager to see to your needs. The kitchen serves up delicious Belizean meals, buffet style, and there is always more than you can eat of several dishes, with plenty of fresh fruit, and freshly baked bread or tortillas.

Ian's tours can be done as a day trip from another hotel, provided it is not too far away. However, for the full Caves Branch experience, you'd enjoy at least one night at the lodge here. Due to the unique nature of the expeditions, each has a maximum of six to eight persons, so avoid disappointment by booking ahead. There are some all-inclusive packages available, and even a phenomenal "Honeymooner's Adventure," complete with Champagne and a night in a cave!

How to get there
Despite its remoteness, Caves Branch is easy to reach. It is located just off the Hummingbird Highway, 14 miles south of the capital, Belmopan. Scheduled bus service between Belize City and Dangriga passes by several times daily. You can also drive yourself. It's a 1 1/2 hours' drive from Belize City, and 1 1/4 hours from San Ignacio...on all-weather roads.