Mopan River Resort

Why would anyone want to stay anywhere else?

Lush gardens and majestic coconut palms adorn the property

Set in a lush garden, with the gently tripping Mopan River at its doorstep, and acres of wilderness on the remaining sides, the ten-acre manicured sanctuary that is Mopan River Resort, has become one of the finest resorts in the country. Amidst this setting you will find a series of thatched-roof buildings: Nine cabanas, three suites, and a spacious central pavilion (housing the reception, lounge and dining room); and a uniquely designed, sparkling-blue swimming pool, complete with cascading waterfall.

To all this, add the (new to Belize) all-inclusive concept and you have a recipe for one incredible experience. Everything is paid for in the package price: Lodging, meals, drinks, guided expeditions, transfers, taxes & service. There are literally NO BILLS, and no tipping required, either. Even the drinks in your cabana's mini-bar are free.

First impressions
The moment we saw the driver for Mopan River Resort waiting for us outside the airport, we had a good feeling about our trip. He was holding a sign with our names printed on it, and his smiling face and friendly demeanor immediately put us at ease. Our luggage was quickly loaded and we headed west for the two hour journey to the village of Benque Viejo del Carmen.

The van pulled up to a concrete boat ramp, and we were greeted by Kim, one of the owners. There are no roads into the resort, so we and our luggage were quickly loaded onto the little red boat that ferries everyone back and forth across the river. We motored upriver, soon catching the first glimpse of our home for the next seven days, and we were awe-struck. Tucked beneath majestic coconut palms that swayed in the fresh river breeze, was splendid greenery, and bright tropical plants and fruit trees.

As we climbed ashore, our luggage was whisked off to our cabanas by the staff; and we learned more about the resort as Kim led us up the path to the lounge and reception. Everything gleamed-- from the varnished hardwood floors, to the mahogany bar and the comfortable rattan furniture; all locally produced. Here, a frosty "Banana Velvet" awaited us. This is the house drink, full of fresh tropical juices, a banana (of course), and rum. We soon learned that this delicious libation would be on our minds every day, as we climbed a pyramid, or paddled a kayak down river!

Above, a view of the fish pond;
and below, the interior of a suite

It just keeps getting better
Following orientation, we were escorted to our cabanas, and again we were impressed with how much thought has gone into the comfort and elegance of this resort. More sparkling hardwoods, an amazing thatched roof (accented with amber "mood lights"), mahogany furniture, a thoroughly modern bathroom, and our private shady veranda with soft, comfortable chairs. The rooms are all fully-screened and have 24 hour electricity, cable TV, coffee & tea provisions, and a mini-bar. After a refreshing dip in the swimming pool, we prepared for dinner, and could hear strains of marimba music as we walked up the path to the lounge for "6 o'clock cocktails." We were introduced to the dozen or so other guests; and everyone was very friendly, and obviously happy to be here. Extra chairs were pulled in to expand the circle of conversation, and we joined in, clutching our proverbial Banana Velvets. A delicious appetizer of Onion Bread was passed around (featured cuisine for the evening was Szechwan Chinese). We learned about the daily routine, and heard excited comments from the others about the sites and activities they had already visited.

At 7 p.m., we were called to the bright and colorful tables in the dining room. Everyone sat together at two or three large tables, and the exuberance that began in the lounge continued through dinner. Kim stands at the buffet table each night, explaining the evening's menu. Tonight we were treated to Dan-Dan Noodles, Stir-fried Sesame Vegetables, Cashew Chicken, and Pepper Beef. Every meal is prepared to perfection by a talented team of ladies from Benque Viejo.

A day's adventure...
The next morning, at the first hint of daylight, we were serenaded by the resident flocks of grackles, blackbirds, warblers and robins; and soon the church bells from the town chimed in. Not willing to spend our holiday in bed, we grabbed our binocs for a bit of bird-watching. During the 45 minutes before breakfast, we spotted at least 15 different birds. The record is 40 species, identified in a single day on the resort grounds. The casual count, thus far, is over 150 species, seen on, or from within the boundary of, the property. The Vermiculated Screech Owl at right, is an annual visitor to Mopan River Resort during nesting season.

At breakfast, the staff gives a good sell to the incredible omelettes and baked goods produced by "Miss Lili," and her able assistants. With freshly-squeezed orange juice every day, accompanied by a platter of tropical fruits, cereals, homemade bread, and eggs-to-order, we were well fueled for our daily expeditions.

Our first day, we made the trip to Chechem Hah pottery cave. The red boat took us all across the river, and the Mopan guide was there smiling broadly; and standing at attention next to his sparkling clean van, ready to lead us on the day's adventure. Chechem Hah is a mere eight mile drive from Benque Viejo. The tour began with a nice nature walk, but soon became a steep climb up to a small opening in the hillside. William, the owner of the land (who actually discovered the cave) was our knowledgeable guide through the long, narrow cave filled with ancient Mayan pottery--some more than 1500 years old. All Mopan expeditions are a story in themselves...Suffice it to say, this was a great experience. We all came back muddy, hot and exhausted, and very appreciative of the air conditioned van and the cooler of beer and sodas waiting for us there!

Back at the resort for lunch, we enjoyed locally inspired dishes such as burritos, taco salad, and "Salbutes": Hand made corn tortillas, soft-fried and topped with spicy shredded chicken, a tangy chopped cabbage mixture, tomatoes, pickled onions and jalapenos. We were even treated to freshly-baked cookies for dessert. We knew some serious activity would be necessary to make room for another fantastic dinner.

River trip
It was announced that all who wished to go kayaking should report to the dock at 3:00 p.m. Unable to resist the promise of yet another adventure, we obliged. Our kayaks, paddles and life vests were waiting for us at the dock, along with Ron, who was to give us instructions and pointers on how to navigate the river, as well as where to find him down river, for our pickup and return.

The inflatable "AIRE" brand kayaks are very forgiving and easy to control--even those who'd never been in one before, soon mastered the technique as we practiced a bit by the dock. Once everyone was on the water, we paddled off with enthusiasm. After conquering the first few sets of small rapids, we were masters of the river; and then concentrated on looking for birds and wildlife along the banks. We saw numerous cormorants, herons and kingfishers. What we hadn't expected to see, were so many huge iguana, sunning or running along the banks. We even saw a river otter for a brief moment before he dove into the water. The biggest rapids were at Clarissa Falls; about a three foot drop. Everyone shrieked and laughed in excitement, as one by one we went over, each trying to improve on the previous attempt. Some were tossed around, some were tossed out! We stayed in, but got doused by the splash. A short distance later, we found our guide with the van, towels and cold drinks for us, and a trailer for the kayaks. This was fantastic! Some of us made the journey again, before leaving the resort. It goes without saying that the majority of the evening's conversation centered around the kayaking skills of the various participants.

Of all our fantastic adventures, the trip to Tikal (pictured right) was probably the highlight. It was a full day: Climbing pyramids and trekking along jungle trails in search of toucans and howler monkeys; eating our lunch high atop Temple Four, while gazing out over the rainforest canopy. This was one incredible journey!

We will always remember our evenings in the lounge; the marimba music, Banana Velvets, savory appetizers, yet another delicious dinner (which cuisine tonight?)--and delightful conversation with the other guests (many of them now friends) about the day's adventures. This has to be, without a doubt, the finest resort in Belize!

Author's notes: Although the location of Mopan River Resort may not be considered remote, it is very much at the jungle's doorstep. It is just as, if not more, beautiful than any "jungle lodge" in Belize, and you will soon appreciate the accessibility of being close to the village. The famous Maya ruins of Xunantunich are just one mile from the resort, and most expeditions are less than an hour's drive away, with Tikal being only a 1-1/2 hour journey.